BUILD LOG PART V is the construction of Whaleboats and their inventory.
BUILD LOG PART IV, was temporarily on hold from May 9, 2015 until I returned home on October 29th, since I could not take the ship with me on my travels. I moved to BUILD LOG PART V, to work and document the construction of the Whaleboats while traveling. BUILD LOG PART IV was completed November 24th upon our return.
As many of you know I travel a number of months each year in my RV. I was fortunate enough this year to have been able to briefly visit the Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut once again for a photo opportunity. I took over 400 photographs on August 20 of the Rigging and current status of the Morgan which are posted in the Gallery Section of this website. I also brought tools and parts along with me to be able to work on the boats along the way. Therefore, after visiting Mystic and the Morgan I got a little inspiration to start working along our journey, so I started building the Whaleboats.
The Whaleboats can actually be constructed at any time during the build and not necessarily at the end. I constructed one hull very early in the build to be sure I could build it and also for reference as I progressed. They can be set aside and installed once BUILD LOG PART VI is completed.
The boats that are constructed are typical whaleboats of the type built by Charles D. Beetle. The Morgan carried many variations of Beetle Boats as well as some by other builders.
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THE SHIPYARD IS OPEN ONCE AGAIN AS OF 10-29-2015
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***BEGINNING OF BUILD LOG PART V: 8-22-2015***
***COMPLETION OF BUILD LOG PART V: 11-12-2015***
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BUILD LOG PART V:
I used a makeshift workshop for this purpose which consists of a Picnic Table and I'm only about 8 miles from Mystic in Connecticut. I used my Proxxon BS/E small Belt Sander held by the Micromot Tool Holder and the FMZ portable Vise, which has a clamp that allows it to be attached to the Picnic Table or any workbench up to about 2-1/2" thick. This is a very versatile tool and works perfect for shaping the small whaleboat hulls. The inside of the boats has to be carved and sanded to form the interior hull basic shape, therefore, I left the bottom part (last pieces - solid) unattached for ease of handling and shaping the hull. It is glued and then shaped once the interior shape is completed. This method is easier for me than wrestling with the bottom and taking the risk of gouging it. The interiors for the 2 boats that mount on the Shelter Roof do not need to be detailed since they mount upside down and lashed to the Roof. The other 5 can be detailed to any level so chosen by the shipwright. I chose to super detail these boats with all the tools and accessories a whaleboat would carry.
When I first approached this stage, I considered several ways to do this process. At first I considered doing a built up form or mold, then forming the ribs around the shaped mold and then planking it. I was not that impressed with the laser cut forms or "lifts" as they are referred to that come with the kit. They seemed to be a bit crude, and the end results did not seem to be accurate to me. However, after playing with the laminated laser cut forms I realized that actually this is not a bad way to go and that they would allow for more uniformity in the repetition since there are 7 boats. I also noted that the proper tools for accomplishing (Proxxon Belt Sander) this were of utmost importance. Once the laser cut forms (lifts) are shaped with the belt sander they actually give a very nice appearance and the laminated layers make for a nice uniform plank appearance - so this is the method I used and I am quite pleased with the end results. To scratch build these the patterns could be taken from Sheet 1 and cut out with a jig saw. This is a common way to build small boats as the center is cut out to form a hull and then carved out. The other method is to carve a solid hull form and then make frame parts to plank over it to form a hull.
Each boat is a separate model in itself.
THE WORKBENCH (PICNIC TABLE):
BUILD LOG PART IV, was temporarily on hold from May 9, 2015 until I returned home on October 29th, since I could not take the ship with me on my travels. I moved to BUILD LOG PART V, to work and document the construction of the Whaleboats while traveling. BUILD LOG PART IV was completed November 24th upon our return.
As many of you know I travel a number of months each year in my RV. I was fortunate enough this year to have been able to briefly visit the Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut once again for a photo opportunity. I took over 400 photographs on August 20 of the Rigging and current status of the Morgan which are posted in the Gallery Section of this website. I also brought tools and parts along with me to be able to work on the boats along the way. Therefore, after visiting Mystic and the Morgan I got a little inspiration to start working along our journey, so I started building the Whaleboats.
The Whaleboats can actually be constructed at any time during the build and not necessarily at the end. I constructed one hull very early in the build to be sure I could build it and also for reference as I progressed. They can be set aside and installed once BUILD LOG PART VI is completed.
The boats that are constructed are typical whaleboats of the type built by Charles D. Beetle. The Morgan carried many variations of Beetle Boats as well as some by other builders.
********************************************
THE SHIPYARD IS OPEN ONCE AGAIN AS OF 10-29-2015
********************************************
***BEGINNING OF BUILD LOG PART V: 8-22-2015***
***COMPLETION OF BUILD LOG PART V: 11-12-2015***
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
BUILD LOG PART V:
I used a makeshift workshop for this purpose which consists of a Picnic Table and I'm only about 8 miles from Mystic in Connecticut. I used my Proxxon BS/E small Belt Sander held by the Micromot Tool Holder and the FMZ portable Vise, which has a clamp that allows it to be attached to the Picnic Table or any workbench up to about 2-1/2" thick. This is a very versatile tool and works perfect for shaping the small whaleboat hulls. The inside of the boats has to be carved and sanded to form the interior hull basic shape, therefore, I left the bottom part (last pieces - solid) unattached for ease of handling and shaping the hull. It is glued and then shaped once the interior shape is completed. This method is easier for me than wrestling with the bottom and taking the risk of gouging it. The interiors for the 2 boats that mount on the Shelter Roof do not need to be detailed since they mount upside down and lashed to the Roof. The other 5 can be detailed to any level so chosen by the shipwright. I chose to super detail these boats with all the tools and accessories a whaleboat would carry.
When I first approached this stage, I considered several ways to do this process. At first I considered doing a built up form or mold, then forming the ribs around the shaped mold and then planking it. I was not that impressed with the laser cut forms or "lifts" as they are referred to that come with the kit. They seemed to be a bit crude, and the end results did not seem to be accurate to me. However, after playing with the laminated laser cut forms I realized that actually this is not a bad way to go and that they would allow for more uniformity in the repetition since there are 7 boats. I also noted that the proper tools for accomplishing (Proxxon Belt Sander) this were of utmost importance. Once the laser cut forms (lifts) are shaped with the belt sander they actually give a very nice appearance and the laminated layers make for a nice uniform plank appearance - so this is the method I used and I am quite pleased with the end results. To scratch build these the patterns could be taken from Sheet 1 and cut out with a jig saw. This is a common way to build small boats as the center is cut out to form a hull and then carved out. The other method is to carve a solid hull form and then make frame parts to plank over it to form a hull.
Each boat is a separate model in itself.
THE WORKBENCH (PICNIC TABLE):
The PROXXON Precision Vise FMZ, with the Micromot Tool Clamp holding the BS/E Belt Sander and clamped to the picnic table bench.
THE BOATS:
The pictures of the lamination and pieces involved are shown first. Then proceeding with the laminated shape after the pieces were glued together follows. NOTE: it's a good idea to number each piece so that should they get out of order they can be assembled in the correct order.
The pictures of the lamination and pieces involved are shown first. Then proceeding with the laminated shape after the pieces were glued together follows. NOTE: it's a good idea to number each piece so that should they get out of order they can be assembled in the correct order.
There are seven 1/8" thick laser cut sheets. Each sheet contains the pieces for one boat. These pieces should be carefully cut from the sheet, numbered for assembly and then glued together in order, leaving the bottom piece unglued until later. The order of assembly is from the bottom right (1) then move up the right side, then back to the bottom left (5) and moving up the left side with the top left piece (7) being the top of the stack.
The 6 frames are now glued or laminated together, leaving the bottom for later. Note, that each end of the pieces are different sizes. There are two different sized tabs on the ends of the pieces. Be sure to match the wide tabs on one end and the thin tabs to the other end. This also allows alignment for the pieces when gluing them together and allows the pieces to center on each other forming the basic hull shape of the boat.
Do this for the 6 remaining boats. Below shows all 7 boats assembled and ready to shape.
The laminated lasercut parts assembled with the exception of the bottom piece
The basic hull forms are shaped from the outside first using the belt sander, then the inside is shaped by carving or grinding and sanding. The bottom piece is added once the inside is shaped. The exception to this is for the two boats that are tied upside down on the Shelter Roof forward of the Hurricane House, therefore, not needing any inside details. These boats are only completed on the outside. The laminated pieces form a rough shaped boat hull, but this does allow for easier shaping and carving since the center is already removed leaving just enough material to create a 1/32" thick hull shape.
Sideways view of the laminated laser cut stack.
Here the outer shell has been shaped.
The bottom piece is glued on at this time since this is one of the boats on the Shelter Roof and there is no need to shape the interior walls.
Starting to shape with the belt sander
Shaping the hull from the builtup or laminated lasercut form. This continues for all remaining boats. Take exceptional care to make the walls thin enough to be to scale but not too thin to damage or gouge the sides. Proceed slowly and cautiously as hurrying could result in a ruined boat.
The 7 hulls have now been shaped and the 3 boat shapes on the left are now shaped and complete as far as the exterior basic shape is concerned. The 2 that are upside down will be tied to the Shelter so the only part to be completed is the outside details. The remaining 5 will be detailed and actually each whaleboat will be an individual model in itself before being mounted to the davits and boat bearers. The hull in the bottom center is sanded and shaped on the inside. It is photographed here to show how it looks and to show the process.
I used my Proxxon IBS/E Rotary Tool with Diamond Coated bits. I used all 4 bits shown below, however, most of the work was done with the round ball and the pear shaped heads. They afforded the proper amount of stock removal without "walking" around too bad. Care must be taken to not gouge holes in the sides of the boats....or worse. The wales are about 1/32" thick all the way around to be to scale.
Round Ball bit shown to right.
The inside is shaped using a diamond coated Dremel type grinder bit and then sanded. The other side is shown in the next picture. The bottom is glued to it once the shape is ground and sanded since this is an easier process than trying to grind and sand with all of them glued together. Care must be taken to not sand through the side walls or punching a hole in it. They do need to be thin to be in scale though. The walls are about 1/32" thick.
As seen here note that the port side is sanded and the starboard side has not. This is a tight spot so be careful.
Both sides have now been ground and sanded or shaped and the bottom piece has been glued to the boat. The next step is to sand down the bottom and shape it to finish the hull shape. The bottom fits nicely and gives a flat bottom to the boat. One can see how this process works better and doesn't "bugger" up the bottom with scratches or gouges from the carving tools which also allows for obtaining the proper wall thickness of between 1/64" to 1/32" (+/- 1.0 mm).
Side view of the whaleboat showing the bottom piece glued but not sanded to shape yet.
All 7 whaleboats are now shaped and sanded inside and out.
Profile view for reference. Check the plans to show the proper profile lines of the boat, noting that the bow and stern are taller than the center. One must be cautious to not over cut the lines or gouge the sides.
Five of the boats should look something like this at this point. The next steps will be adding the details to each of the boats. I will work on one boat at a time to add the rest of the details. Each boat is a model in itself and gets a lot of attention. These are the boats that are attached to the ship on the boat bearers and davits. I will post pictures as I progress, however, it might be some time in-between the photos since quite a bit of work will need to be done to accomplish a finished boat. I have been fortunate to be able to work on these as I travel. I estimate about 3 hours per boat to be at this stage of construction. Many more hours are needed for the details.
The keels are formed by trimming the piece to the proper size 2 mm x 2 mm strip, soaking it in water and then using the heat forming plank bender to heat form the curvature to fit the boat. Then it is glued in place to form the keel. These boats are for mounting on the shelter roof.
The keel is then glued to the boat.
The rails are then formed by soaking, bending and gluing a flat 1 mm x 2.5 mm wide strip to the formed boat rim allowing the rail to protrude over the outer edge as well as interior edge. Only one rail is on at this time. This is a tricky process in that the rail is being bent sideways (against the grain) to lay flat as well as leaving a slight "overhang" on each side of the walls or wales of the boat.
The protuding top rail can be seen here.
Added the other rail, Chaffing Rail, Deck Ends, Steering Oar Brace (port side) Logger Head (starboard), Lion's Tongue and Rudder in stowed position.
Stern end of boat showing the details with stowed Rudder.
First coat of white paint applied which makes the Chaffing Rail show nicely.
Top rail and deck tops painted black and the blue boat identification color painted.
Rudder shown here in stowed position as this boat will be lashed to the Shelter Roof. Each boat had a unique color so that they could be identified easily and monitored from the ship as they were out catching or chasing a whale. Estimate about 5 hours from start to finish to this stage per boat.
The yellow boat has now been completed. Five more to go. These two will mount on the Shelter upside down.
The keels and top rails have been installed on the remaining 5 boats.
These drawings of a typical Beetle Boat are shown here for reference to show the details and nomenclature. Again, note the profile shape. Numerous drawings of different whaleboats are available from Mystic. This was the style I chose for mine.
The first of the five remaining whaleboats is shown with the following interior details installed. The Ceiling Planks were installed first, then the 5 Thwarts (seats), the Stern Sheets (lower decking or Boat Steers Sole) the Bow Sheets (lower decking or Harpooners Sole), the Mast Step, the Center Board Case (A Keel drops down or swings down into the water from this case and is called a Center Board), the Ribs above the Ceiling Plank, and the Cutty Boards (Aft Top Deck). All of the parts were made from 1/64" x 1/64" strips and also 1/32" thick strips measured and cut from the 1/64" and 1/32" x 3" sheets since these size strips are not supplied in the kit. The Thwarts are 1/32" thick material. This boat will be completly fitted out before completing the remaining 4 boats which will only be duplicating this boat. All five boats will be completed and then the tools, harpoons, tubs, sail and mast, etc. will be added to each completed boat.
Top view of boat at this stage.
To make the oar locks, I used the smallest brass wire I had, cutting about a 1" long piece, I wrapped it around a toothpick and twisted it to form a tight loop. I then cut the twisted part short to mount in the predrilled hole in the oarlock wood piece glued to the rail. There are five of them per boat.
Once glued to the boat they are then cut to form an open, properly formed, curved oar lock "Y".
The remaining components: the Foot Brace, Oarlocks, Lions Tongue, Loggerhead, Main Sheet Cleats, Steering Oar Brace, Thwart Knees, Bow Box, Clumsy Cleat, Jib Sheet Cleats, Spar Chock, Main Cleat, Quarter Chocks (port & starbord) and Mast Tabernackle have now been added to complete the basic boat without working accessories...ie oars, harpoons and tubs, etc. which are added after the remaining four boats are all completed to this stage. The boat is now ready to paint. I used some cleats left over from a previous project as well as made a few from scratch to accessorize the boats.
The components have all been added and the boat is ready to paint. The brass wire loops made earlier have now been cut to form the Oarlocks.
The inside of the boat is painted Gray, the rails and top are painted Black, the hull is White, and the ID stripe for this boat is painted Orange
The remaining four boats are identical to this only with a different colored ID stripe. Estimated time in this boat is about 10-12 hours.
The remaining 4 boats are now finished and ready for the next stage which is the finer details and painting.
These are better pictures showing the details.
Better pictures.
Now to make the other three look like this.
Upon reviewing the photos of the real whaleboats in Mystic, I realized I had overlooked the Bow Chocks. They have been added to the previous boats (the unpainted small pieces on the bow). The boats are now completed and ready to paint.
The boats are essentially completed structuraly. I added some more details such as ropes, minor touch ups and things prior to adding the accessories and tools. The Fore and Aft Boat Lift Eyes will be added once back to the ship and prior to rigging them to the Davits which is covered in BUILD LOG PART VI. This way the Blocks and Hooks from the Davits will line up as close as possible with the Boat.....trying to keep a natural fall to the blocks.
The color scheme is the same as used at Mystic Seaport on the real Morgan. NOTE: Some off the boats have a Beige, White or Gray interior. Several colors were used over the years and are shown at Mystic for reference. I chose to use the Gray for all boat interiors for continuity.
Some of the Morgan's Whaleboats tied to the pier alongside....8-22-15.
Natural light photographs always seem to show things better so I will include a number of pictures that show the details more clearly. These are for reference for anyone building these boats. Hopefully any questions might be answered from the following photos. These may be somewhat repititious but are provided to attempt to show most angles.
Top view
Profile view
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The shipyard is open once again as of October 29, 2015
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I have returned home and have set up the Morgan on the bench, set the whaleboats on the Boat Bearers temporarily so that I could confirm the fit and document with photographs. The boats are tilted too far outboard only so they won't fall off. When properly attached they are square and lashed to the Boat Bearers and attached to the blocks on the Davits.
The shipyard is open once again as of October 29, 2015
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I have returned home and have set up the Morgan on the bench, set the whaleboats on the Boat Bearers temporarily so that I could confirm the fit and document with photographs. The boats are tilted too far outboard only so they won't fall off. When properly attached they are square and lashed to the Boat Bearers and attached to the blocks on the Davits.
OARS, HARPOONS, LANCES, & PADDLES
Using the Tungsten Carbide 2.8 mm - .26 mm Drawplate, (see Ship's Store for details as well as the Proxxon Tools website) mounted in the Proxxon Precision Vise FMZ begin to draw the Bamboo Dowels through the progressive holes in the Drawplate. There is a discussion here on using a Drawplate. There are many that do not know the procedure for this so the following discussion and photographs should help explain how to use this resourceful tool. I am so impressed with this Drawplate that I now carry them in my Proxxon Store, and they are for sale.
There are quite a few different types and sizes of Drawplates available. First, the maximum size hole needed for the beginning dowels to be used must be determined. In using Bamboo dowels, remember they are flexible and usually irregular. Bamboo is not wood, it is actually a grass. The illustrations show that the dowels used here are 2.5 mm in diameter and it required numerous passes through the 2.8 mm hole which also happens to be the largest hole for this particular Drawplate, showing the dowel irregularities in diameter. If using a steel drawplate, it could possibly get dull and resharpening might be required - which is difficult by the way. This particular Drawplate is Tungsten Carbide, which when pulling wood remains sharp and problem free.
When using a drawplate start with the largest hole that the dowel will pass through, and proceed to draw the dowel from the front of the Drawplate (side with numbers and markings) to the rear. It might require starting from the rear and pushing the dowel through partways and drawing it back and forth to shave off the excess wood. Continue this to reduce the dowel to that diameter where it will move freely in that hole. Then proceed to the next smallest hole and repeat the procedure. Continue doing this, finishing at the desired diameter hole, checking with the digital calipers for uniformity. Repeat until all pieces are made. If using a steel drawplate starting from the back side might work better since that is the sharp side. The objective being which ever side shaves them down the easiest.
Using the Tungsten Carbide 2.8 mm - .26 mm Drawplate, (see Ship's Store for details as well as the Proxxon Tools website) mounted in the Proxxon Precision Vise FMZ begin to draw the Bamboo Dowels through the progressive holes in the Drawplate. There is a discussion here on using a Drawplate. There are many that do not know the procedure for this so the following discussion and photographs should help explain how to use this resourceful tool. I am so impressed with this Drawplate that I now carry them in my Proxxon Store, and they are for sale.
There are quite a few different types and sizes of Drawplates available. First, the maximum size hole needed for the beginning dowels to be used must be determined. In using Bamboo dowels, remember they are flexible and usually irregular. Bamboo is not wood, it is actually a grass. The illustrations show that the dowels used here are 2.5 mm in diameter and it required numerous passes through the 2.8 mm hole which also happens to be the largest hole for this particular Drawplate, showing the dowel irregularities in diameter. If using a steel drawplate, it could possibly get dull and resharpening might be required - which is difficult by the way. This particular Drawplate is Tungsten Carbide, which when pulling wood remains sharp and problem free.
When using a drawplate start with the largest hole that the dowel will pass through, and proceed to draw the dowel from the front of the Drawplate (side with numbers and markings) to the rear. It might require starting from the rear and pushing the dowel through partways and drawing it back and forth to shave off the excess wood. Continue this to reduce the dowel to that diameter where it will move freely in that hole. Then proceed to the next smallest hole and repeat the procedure. Continue doing this, finishing at the desired diameter hole, checking with the digital calipers for uniformity. Repeat until all pieces are made. If using a steel drawplate starting from the back side might work better since that is the sharp side. The objective being which ever side shaves them down the easiest.
Backside of Drawplate mounted in the Proxxon FMZ Vise.
Shown here for size reference showing 20.5 cm long.
This view shows the progressive sizing with the smaller diameter at the bottom. These draws use only the hands and not the pliers. The pliers tend to tear up the fragile wood dowels on the ends, losing much of the progression.
The smallest hole these were drawn through was 1.6 mm, but the wood swelled back to 1.8 mm. This diameter should be good for the oars and harpoons. Using this drawplate, it used all 13 holes on the top run, largest to smallest. There are many requirements for this diameter dowel, so continue repeating this process until the required number has been achieved. I did do one boat at a time again, since there are 5 boats to prepare. This will give me a guide as well as a goal.
Starting with the Orange Boat, the oars are constructed with measurements taken from the drawings. Six oars are required for each boat. They are different lengths and are for different purposes. After pulling the dowels through the Drawplate to obtain a diameter of 1.8 mm, each oar handle is cut through the end with the Micro Saw Blade to make a slot to accommodate the paddle part of the oar. The paddle is 4 mm x 20 mm and is 0.9 mm thick.
Starting with the Orange Boat, the oars are constructed with measurements taken from the drawings. Six oars are required for each boat. They are different lengths and are for different purposes. After pulling the dowels through the Drawplate to obtain a diameter of 1.8 mm, each oar handle is cut through the end with the Micro Saw Blade to make a slot to accommodate the paddle part of the oar. The paddle is 4 mm x 20 mm and is 0.9 mm thick.
Sawing the slot with the Micro Saw Blade.
The Proxxon MS 4 Vise really comes in handy here as it has a V slot to accommodate small dowels without jeopardizing the roundness of the dowel by squeezing it flat.
This oar is assembled, measures 76 mm and the handle is carved at the end. All oars should look like this with the exception of lengths.
These oars fit out one boat. The oars are top to bottom:
Name: Scale Length: Yellow Stripe Markings on Paddle:
Steering Oar 101 mm None
Bow Oar 76 mm II
Tub Oar 76 mm IIII
After Oar 71 mm IIIII
Middle Oar 81 mm III
Harpooners Oar 71 mm I
Name: Scale Length: Yellow Stripe Markings on Paddle:
Steering Oar 101 mm None
Bow Oar 76 mm II
Tub Oar 76 mm IIII
After Oar 71 mm IIIII
Middle Oar 81 mm III
Harpooners Oar 71 mm I
THE WAIFS, MASTS, BOOMS, GAFFS AND SAILS
Using the Draw Plate, continue to make dowels to 1.85 mm diameter for the oars, and 2.1 mm for the Booms and Gaffs.
Using the Draw Plate, continue to make dowels to 1.85 mm diameter for the oars, and 2.1 mm for the Booms and Gaffs.
The Line Drawing shows one version of a typical Beetle Boat profile with Spritsail Rigging, of the same era as this build configuration. The Boom and Gaff are attached to the Mast, the Sail is attached to the components either by being tied or tied to loops that work on the Mast. I chose to make these components, attach the sail to them, then fold and furl the Sail to the Mast, tie the Furled Sail and then stow this aboard the boat. This is repeated for each boat.
A sketch of the Spritsail is drawn to scale, then copied and cut out to make a pattern to use on the sail material. I just used a simple white cotton material for the sails.
The small 4" Anvil and small Ball Peen Hammer are used to Peen a 1.2 mm brass tubing for forming the pointed, barbed end of the pole part of the Waif, which is a Red Flag that is stabbed into the whale to mark it and to hopefully be seen from the ship once a whale has been harpooned or killed.
The workstation showing the Proxxon FMZ Vise, the Tungsten Carbide Draw Plate, the 4" Anvil and Ball Peen Hammer.
The components for the boats so far are the various oars, The Waif, The Line Tubs, Masts, Booms, Gaffs, and Spritsails. All wood is stained and varnished with a satin finish clear. The oar tips will be striped, the sails are attached to the Masts, Booms and Gaffs, then folded furled and tied. Then all of this and other inventory items for these boats is stowed and prepared for mounting to the ship and Davits toward the end of the build.
The Waif - Red Flag, Spritsail, Gaff, Boom and Mast for 1 boat.
The Harpoons and Lances are made by using the Draw Plate to draw down 5 dowels to 1.8 mm diameter for the shafts. These are cut so that 3 are 23 mm long for the harpoons, and 1 is 27 mm for the Lance. The typical boat carried 5 harpoons and 3 Lances, however, since it's getting crowded, I'm only using 3 harpoons and 1 lance per boat. The blades are made by cutting a 4 mm long piece of 1.2 mm brass tube, and a 20 mm piece of 0.4 mm brass rod. The 0.4 mm rod is inserted into the 4 mm tubing about 2 mm into the tube. It is then peened as flat as possible on the small anvil to form a flat thin head. That is then cut with small sheers to form a point or one sided "arrowhead" barbed head for the harpoons. For the Lances, use just the 0.4 mm wire and peen the end of it to form a flat spear type head and cut it sharp also to form a pointed flat blade. These are then pushed into the dowel rods, some shafts are soft and some needed to be drilled prior to being inserted into the shaft. Once they are glued they can be straightened easily.
The Lance is on the left but turned where the flat spearhead is not showing, the Harpoons show the blade.
The Whaleboat Fleet with some inventory. None of these pieces are finished at this point. The oars need to be cleaned up, sanded, stained and then glued and spray varnished, the harpoons, lance blades need to be blackend, and the shafts stained. The mast, gaffs, and booms need to be stained and varnished prior to furling the sails. The line tubs need to have the line added prior to permanently mounting to the boats. In reality, the large tub contained 200 Fathoms (1,200 ft) of line and the small tub carried 100 Fathoms (600 ft).
When staining small things such as this I typically will insert one end into a Styrofoam block to use as a base. Then stain them and spray varnish them.
The various components are sanded, glued, stained and varnished. The oars are identified by yellow bands or stripes. This is how the components look when finished and ready to be mounted to the boat.
I couldn't resist...just had to see what one looked like with the sail up. This gets furled and lashed to the boat. Doing this actually inspired me to fully rig out the Yellow Boat with sails set, oars in their locks, and fully rigged out for display along side the ship upon completion.
Both Line Tubs installed. Note the Bow Line and the Oar Line. The oar line is tied to the cleat in the stern (left side in this picture). The Bowline is coiled in the Bow Box and tied off to the Bow Chocks.
The Harpoons, Lance and oars are now placed and glued on board.
The Mast with furled sail is glued and placed on top.
The Green Boat is now complete.
The Green Boat is now complete.
The Purple Boat is now complete.
The first boat, Starboard Aft, sits on the boat bearer. This is lashed down at the end of BUILD LOG PART VI.
Starboard Side Forward Boat.
The Starboard Boats are complete.
The remaining oars, lances, harpoons, line tubs, waifs and furled sails have all been painted, stained and tied and are ready to be stowed on the remaining 3 boats.
All whaleboats are now complete and sitting in their proper berth on the ship. Again, these are not lashed down and have been set aside until the end of BUILD LOG VI to mount them at the end of the build.
Port Side Forward Boat.
Port Side Midship Boat
Port Side Aft boat
All Boats Overview
The Fleet stowed and patiently awaiting final attachment to the ship.
All boats are complete and ready to be attached to the Davits and Bearers at the end of BUILD LOG VI
A decision was made after completing this stage, to set aside the Yellow Boat that is supposed to mount to the Shelter Roof and re-do it to make a working whaleboat, with the sail and mast up, rigged and having the various oars and tools in the proper position. This boat is mounted to the base alongside the ship when completed. So only 6 boats are mounted on the ship at the end of BUILD LOG PART VI.
***This now completes BUILD LOG PART V***
*************************CONGRATULATIONS*************************
Another Milestone....All Whaleboats are completed. This part of the build log became quite lengthy, so the remaining work continues in BUILD LOG PART VI, THE CUTTING IN STAGE & FINISHING UP.
***BUILD LOG PART V Completed 11-12-2015***
PLEASE GO TO BUILD LOG PART VI TO CONTINUE
*** This log is current as of: 11-12-2015 ***
